How to Get Rid of Raccoons in Your Attic

📋 Steps

Confirm it's a raccoon, not squirrels or rats

Raccoons: heavy thumping, walking sounds (not scurrying), vocal chittering, active at dusk/night. Droppings are large (2–3 inches), tubular, often in a communal "latrine" area. Squirrels: lighter, faster, daytime activity. Rats: small droppings, gnawing sounds.

Find and document all entry points

Raccoons need a 4–6 inch opening. Common entries: damaged soffit panels, broken gable vents, uncapped chimneys, gaps where roof meets fascia. Look for: torn soffit material, claw marks, greasy stain marks around openings, and bent vent covers.

Use one-way exclusion doors — not trapping

Install a one-way exclusion device over the primary entry point. The raccoon can exit but cannot re-enter. This is the humane, legal, and most effective method. Leave secondary openings sealed. Wait 5–7 days for the raccoon to exit on its own schedule.

Seal all entry points AFTER confirmed departure

After 5–7 days with no activity (check for new droppings, listen for sounds, place flour near entry to check for tracks), permanently seal all openings with heavy-gauge hardware cloth or metal flashing. Raccoons are strong — lightweight screen will not hold.

Clean up raccoon latrine with full PPE

Raccoon droppings can contain Baylisascaris procyonis (raccoon roundworm) eggs — infectious to humans. Wear N95 mask, gloves, and disposable coveralls. Mist droppings with water (prevent aerosolizing). Bag and dispose. Clean area with boiling water (chemicals don't kill roundworm eggs). Consider professional cleanup for large latrines.

💡 Tips

Check for babies before excluding — raccoon maternity season runs March through June. Excluding a mother with babies inside is illegal in most states and results in either dead kits or a desperate mother tearing through your roof to return
Raccoons cause an average of $3,000–$8,000 in attic damage from crushed insulation, torn ductwork, and chewed wiring. Act quickly to minimize damage
Mothballs, ammonia, bright lights, and loud radios are commonly recommended raccoon deterrents — none are reliably effective. One-way exclusion is the professional standard

⚖️ Educational use only. Disclaimer →

💰 Cost to Fix This Problem

Approach	Typical Cost	Best For
DIY materials only	$100–$300 (exclusion materials)	Mild or early-stage infestations
Professional service (one-time)	$400–$1,500 (removal + exclusion + cleanup)	Active infestations or when DIY has failed
Ongoing service contract	N/A — one-time service	Prevention and long-term management

Approach

Typical Cost

Best For

DIY materials only

$100–$300 (exclusion materials)

Mild or early-stage infestations

Professional service (one-time)

$400–$1,500 (removal + exclusion + cleanup)

Active infestations or when DIY has failed

Ongoing service contract

N/A — one-time service

Prevention and long-term management

Costs vary by region, property size, and severity. Get at least two quotes before hiring.

✅ How to Know It's Working

Pest control success is measured in weeks, not days. Here's what to look for:

Week 1–2: You may see increased activity as pests are flushed from hiding. This is normal.

Week 2–4: Activity should drop noticeably. Traps or monitors should show declining numbers.

Week 4–6: New activity near zero. Any resurgence means a source was missed or re-introduction occurred.

💡 Monitoring tip: Place sticky traps in corners and along walls before you start treatment. Counting catches weekly gives you objective data on whether the population is declining.

👷 When to Call a Professional

DIY is appropriate for small, contained problems caught early. Call a licensed professional when:

You've tried DIY twice with no lasting improvement

The problem involves a wall void, crawlspace, or area you can't safely access

There's a health risk involved (hantavirus, rabies, anaphylaxis risk)

The infestation covers more than one room or a large outdoor area

You have children, elderly, or immunocompromised individuals in the household

⚠️ Rule of thumb: If you've spent more on DIY materials than a professional visit would cost, it's time to call.

❓ Frequently Asked Questions

Can I trap and relocate a raccoon?

In most states, trapping raccoons requires a wildlife control permit. Many states prohibit relocating raccoons because they are rabies vector species — relocated raccoons spread rabies to new areas. Check your state wildlife regulations before any trapping attempt.

Is raccoon poop dangerous?

Yes. Raccoon droppings can contain Baylisascaris procyonis eggs — raccoon roundworm. If ingested or inhaled, these eggs can cause serious neurological disease in humans. Always wear PPE when cleaning raccoon latrines. Children's sandboxes are especially at risk if raccoons have access.

Will raccoons leave on their own?

Sometimes — raccoons may leave after raising a litter (usually by late summer). However, they often return to the same den site year after year. Waiting for them to leave voluntarily risks months of additional damage. Proactive exclusion is strongly recommended.

Should I call a professional for raccoons?

Strongly recommended. Raccoons are powerful, can carry rabies, and their waste is a biohazard. Wildlife control professionals have the permits, equipment, and experience to exclude raccoons safely. Most pest control companies refer raccoon work to specialized wildlife operators.