DIY pest control: what you can do yourself, and when to call a pro

Common household pests

German Cockroach Blattella germanica The German cockroach is the most common cockroach living indoors in California and perhaps worldwide, especially in apartment buildings, and it has the fastest reproductive cycle of the common pest cockroaches. Penn State and Kentucky call it the most common cockroach in homes, apartments and other buildings, and Kentucky says it does not live outdoors. Odorous House Ant Tapinoma sessile The odorous house ant is a small native ant found across most of the United States that trails into homes for sweets and gives off a strong, rotten odor when crushed. Texas A&M says it ranges from Canada to Mexico but is rarely found in the southwestern deserts. House Mouse Mus musculus The house mouse is a small, adaptable rodent that lives close to people in homes, schools and food businesses, eating and contaminating food, gnawing wiring and carrying disease. Bed Bug Cimex lectularius Bed bugs are wingless, blood-feeding insects that feed on sleeping or resting people, mostly at night; they have resurged worldwide and now turn up even in the finest hotels. CDC says they turn up in five-star hotels and resorts, and how clean a place is does not determine whether bed bugs are present. Cat Flea Ctenocephalides felis The cat flea is the most common external parasite of domestic cats and dogs, and the flea most often found on both. Adults spend most of their time on the pet, while eggs, larvae and pupae build up wherever the pet rests. Mosquito Culicidae (shown: Culex pipiens complex) Mosquitoes are small, delicate flies whose females feed on blood and can pass on viruses such as West Nile; the control that works best goes after the larvae in standing water. Blacklegged Tick Ixodes scapularis The blacklegged tick, often called the deer tick, is widely distributed across the eastern United States and transmits the bacteria that cause Lyme disease along with several other diseases. Fruit Fly Drosophila melanogaster Fruit flies, also called vinegar or pomace flies, are tiny flies drawn to ripe and fermenting fruits and vegetables. They can show up any time of year, but they are most common from summer into fall. House Centipede Scutigera coleoptrata House centipedes are fast, long-legged predators that live in damp parts of buildings and feed on silverfish, cockroaches, carpet beetle larvae and other small arthropods; they are largely harmless. Silverfish Lepisma saccharinum Silverfish are nocturnal, wingless insects that hide by day and graze at night on paper, book bindings, starch in clothing and dry foods, preferring damp, warm places such as laundry rooms. European Paper Wasp Polistes dominula Paper wasps hang open, umbrella-shaped paper nests under eaves and in sheltered spots; they are much less defensive than yellowjackets and rarely sting unless a nest is disturbed. Eastern Subterranean Termite Reticulitermes spp. (shown: R. flavipes) Subterranean termites live in the soil and travel into buildings through earthen shelter tubes; they are the most destructive termites in most of the United States and usually warrant a professional.

The four steps, whoever does the work

EPA's Citizen's Guide to Pest Control and Pesticide Safety sets out four steps for any pest problem: identify the pest, decide how much control you really need, choose an effective option, and then give it time and check whether it worked. Our integrated pest management guide walks through each step in detail.^[3]

Identification comes first and matters most. Free help is available from your county Cooperative Extension office and from state university websites; UC IPM suggests taking a specimen or photos to the extension office and asking about management options at the same time.^[3][13]

Pest control is not the same as pest elimination. EPA warns that insisting on getting rid of every pest inside and outside the home leads to more extensive, repeated and possibly hazardous chemical treatments than you need. Seeing a single pest does not always mean control is needed.^[3][4]

NPIC lists the habits that make IPM work: learn the pest's habits and life cycle, keep it out where you can, remove its food, water and shelter, work out its travel routes and home base, and know all your control options before acting, using the least toxic methods first.^[10][14]

To judge results, compare conditions before and after treatment and look for a clear drop in pest numbers. If you are still unsure what to do, EPA's advice is to go back to the same free sources, such as extension, for more help.^[3]

Jobs most homeowners can do

EPA's first advice for residents is to keep pests from getting food, water and shelter, and to seal the entryways they use to come in from outdoors or from elsewhere in your building.^[2][3]

UC IPM's examples of work you can do yourself include replacing pest-prone trees or shrubs with resistant kinds, repairing plumbing or drainage problems that create excess moisture, and installing screens, door sweeps, threshold seals and other barriers. Our pest-proofing guide covers sealing and moisture in detail.^[13]

Some problems respond well to careful DIY work. UC IPM notes that ants can be managed effectively with baits, and EPA's bed bug advice includes running infested items through a clothes dryer on high heat. Our guides to ant baits, cockroach gel baits, snap traps and freezing or heating infested items, linked below, cover the details.^[13][8]

Before any spray, check whether a nonchemical step will do. EPA says to use pesticides indoors only when absolutely necessary and in very limited amounts, and NPIC treats pesticides as a last resort when other options have failed.^[3][1]

When to call a professional

UC IPM's test is simple: if the job needs repeated pesticide applications or complex procedures such as trapping wildlife, ask whether you have the skills, equipment and time to follow through. If not, hire a professional. The same applies if you don't have the time or ability to research the pest and apply a product safely.^[13][15]

• Termites. EPA says termiticide application can in most cases only be done properly by a trained pest management professional, and that improper treatment can contaminate the home and nearby drinking water wells without protecting against termites. See our termite guides.^[6][13]
• Tenting (structural fumigation). The usual home fumigant, sulfuryl fluoride, is a restricted use pesticide that only certified applicators may use. Our fumigation guide covers when it is needed and how to prepare.^[12]
• Bed bugs. EPA calls bed bug treatment complex, taking weeks to months, and says many people hire professionals; it advises getting one involved as soon as possible because time spent treating on your own could let the infestation spread. EPA also publishes do-it-yourself steps, and notes that home heat treatments might not work while professionals can heat whole houses.^[7][8]
• Wasp and yellowjacket nests. UC IPM says that if a nest must be eliminated, calling for professional help is easiest and safest; agitated wasps can be met some distance from the nest even the day after a treatment. Our wasp nest guide covers when a nest can be left alone.^[16]
• Wildlife in or around the house. CDC advises never approaching animals that seem injured, sick or dead, especially night-active animals such as bats and raccoons seen in daytime, and calling animal control instead. UC IPM notes that wildlife problems may require special licenses. See our wildlife, live-trapping and bat exclusion guides.^[17][13]
• Rats and mice beyond a few traps. Consumer rodenticides are limited to ready-to-use bait stations with block or paste bait; second-generation anticoagulants are registered only for the commercial and structural pest control markets, and professional products are not to be sold in consumer stores such as hardware and grocery stores.^[9]
• Large trees. UC IPM lists problems with large trees among those that need special pesticides or equipment and technical training.^[13][15]
• An extensive infestation, or a pest that keeps coming back. EPA's advice on selecting a pest control service says some infestations are extensive, or a particular pest difficult to control, and need a company.^[5]

If you hire someone

Take your time. EPA notes that most pest problems can wait a few days while you get several estimates, and NPIC says not to rush even an urgent problem. Verify the technician's license with your state pesticide regulatory office.^[5][11]

A good company should inspect first and lay out its plan: the pest and the extent of the problem, the active ingredient and how it is applied, nonchemical alternatives, what you need to do to reduce exposure, and steps to prevent the problem in future.^[3][13]

UC IPM recommends asking for long-term fixes as well as an immediate pesticide application, and doing your part after hiring through sanitation and exclusion. IPM services may cost more at first, because of extra monitoring visits and labor, but often give better long-term control. Our guides to choosing a pest control company and checking a license cover contracts, questions and red flags.^[13]

Before you treat

If you treat it yourself, follow the label exactly. EPA warns not to change the recommended amount: twice the amount won't do twice the job and could harm you, others or what you are trying to protect.^[3][1]

• Make sure the label lists the place you plan to treat; using a pesticide somewhere the label doesn't list is illegal and unsafe.^[1]
• Wear at least the protective equipment the label requires, and consider more.^[1]
• Store food, toys, pet bowls and clothing away from the treatment area.^[1]
• For liquids, stay out of treated areas until they have dried and been ventilated; for granular lawn products, keep pets and children off until the granules dissolve.^[1]
• Remember that disinfectants are pesticides too, and read their labels.^[1]
• Don't smoke or eat while mixing or applying a pesticide. If the label says to dilute it, mix outdoors or in a well-ventilated area, with measuring cups and spoons you never use in the kitchen, and mix only what you need for that application.^[3][15]
• Keep pesticides in their original labeled containers. Never pour them into soft drink or milk bottles, where someone could mistake them for something to drink.^[3]
• Never put insect or rodent bait where small children or pets can reach it.^[3]
• Indoors, apply most surface sprays only to limited areas such as cracks, not entire floors, walls or ceilings, and remove food, dishes and pans before treating kitchen cabinets.^[3]
• Outdoors, don't spray when the wind is above 10 mph, close your doors and windows first, and don't apply pesticides to blooming plants, especially when bees are visiting.^[3]
• For help comparing products or with any pesticide question, NPIC answers calls at 1-800-858-7378.^[1][3]

Common questions

Is it cheaper to do pest control yourself?

It depends on the pest and the job. UC IPM notes that professional services may seem costly but can save time and money in the long term, and may be worth it to save a structure or solve a serious problem.^[13][15]

Can I buy the same products professionals use?

Not all of them. UC IPM says licensed operators have access to some products not sold online or in stores. Second-generation anticoagulant rodenticides are registered only for commercial and structural pest control, and the main home fumigant can be used only by certified applicators.^[15][9][12]

Who can identify a pest for me for free?

Your county Cooperative Extension office. EPA also lists the National Pesticide Information Center, and UC IPM suggests bringing a specimen or clear photos.^[3][13]

Should I try bed bugs myself before calling someone?

EPA says your chance of success depends on how many bed bugs you have, how much clutter there is, whether neighbors have them and whether everyone in the home cooperates. Its advice on hiring is to involve a professional as soon as possible, since delay can let the infestation spread.^[8][7]

Sources

1. National Pesticide Information Center, “Minimizing Pesticide Exposures.” npic.orst.edu/health/minexp.html (accessed 2026-11-10)
2. U.S. Environmental Protection Agency, “Pest Control: Resources for Residents.” www.epa.gov/safepestcontrol/pest-control-resources-residents (accessed 2026-11-10)
3. U.S. Environmental Protection Agency, “Citizen's Guide to Pest Control and Pesticide Safety (EPA 735-K-04-002).” www.epa.gov/sites/default/files/2017-08/documents/citizens_guide_to_pest_control_and_pesticide_safety.pdf (accessed 2026-11-10)
4. U.S. Environmental Protection Agency, “Integrated Pest Management (IPM) Principles.” www.epa.gov/safepestcontrol/integrated-pest-management-ipm-principles (accessed 2026-11-10)
5. U.S. Environmental Protection Agency, “Tips for Selecting a Pest Control Service.” www.epa.gov/safepestcontrol/tips-selecting-pest-control-service (accessed 2026-11-10)
6. U.S. Environmental Protection Agency, “Termites: How to Identify and Control Them.” www.epa.gov/safepestcontrol/termites-how-identify-and-control-them (accessed 2026-11-10)
7. U.S. Environmental Protection Agency, “Hiring a Pest Management Professional for Bed Bugs.” www.epa.gov/bedbugs/hiring-pest-management-professional-bed-bugs (accessed 2026-11-10)
8. U.S. Environmental Protection Agency, “Do-it-yourself Bed Bug Control.” www.epa.gov/bedbugs/do-it-yourself-bed-bug-control (accessed 2026-11-10)
9. U.S. Environmental Protection Agency, “Restrictions on Rodenticide Products.” www.epa.gov/rodenticides/restrictions-rodenticide-products (accessed 2026-11-10)
10. National Pesticide Information Center, “Integrated Pest Management (IPM).” npic.orst.edu/pest/ipm.html (accessed 2026-11-10)
11. National Pesticide Information Center, “Selecting a Pest Control Company.” www.npic.orst.edu/pest/selectpco.html (accessed 2026-11-10)
12. National Pesticide Information Center, “Structural Fumigation.” npic.orst.edu/pest/fumigation.html (accessed 2026-11-10)
13. University of California Statewide IPM Program, “Pest Notes: Hiring a Pest Control Company.” ipm.ucanr.edu/home-and-landscape/hiring-a-pest-control-company/ (accessed 2026-11-10)
14. University of California Statewide IPM Program, “What Is Integrated Pest Management (IPM)?.” ipm.ucanr.edu/what-is-ipm/ (accessed 2026-11-10)
15. University of California Statewide IPM Program, “Pesticides: Safe and Effective Use in the Home and Landscape.” ipm.ucanr.edu/home-and-landscape/pesticides-safe-and-effective-use-in-the-home-and-landscape/ (accessed 2026-11-10)
16. University of California Statewide IPM Program, “Pest Notes: Yellowjackets and Other Social Wasps.” ipm.ucanr.edu/home-and-landscape/yellowjackets-and-other-social-wasps/ (accessed 2026-11-10)
17. U.S. Centers for Disease Control and Prevention, “Rabies Prevention and Control.” www.cdc.gov/rabies/prevention/index.html (accessed 2026-11-10)