The short answer
- Look for mud tubes, swarmers or shed wings, and damaged wood.[3][1]
- Check outside along the foundation, attached porches and patios, and anywhere wood touches soil.[4]
- Homes that have had subterranean termites before should be professionally inspected every several years.[1]
- A termite inspection report is normally a condition of sale when buying or selling a home.[2]
- Break open any mud tube you find and look for small, creamy-white worker termites, which help show whether the infestation is active. An empty tube doesn't prove the termites are gone.[2][7]
- Tap and probe wood near the foundation with a screwdriver. Wood that sounds hollow or dull, or that is soft and easily punctured, needs a closer look.[5][7][8]
- Winged termites coming out indoors almost always mean the house is infested. Swarmers in the yard, away from the house, don't on their own.[2][7]
- Termite damage builds slowly, so there's time to get two or three companies to inspect before you choose a treatment.[7][6]
Before you start: timing, tools and prep
A homeowner can do a basic check, but Texas A&M Extension recommends licensed inspectors for the real thing because of their training and experience. UC IPM agrees that homeowners should know how an inspection works and fix conducive conditions, while leaving the inspection and treatment program to a licensed professional.[5][9]
UC IPM says spring, especially a warm, sunny day after rain, is the peak time for subterranean termite swarms, and it can be your best chance to see live termites and where they are coming out of the house. In North Carolina, native subterranean termites start swarming in late winter and keep going into September or October, usually during the day.[9][7]
- Tools Texas A&M lists for an inspection: a flashlight, an ice pick or sharp-pointed screwdriver, a ladder, and protective clothing such as a bump cap, coveralls and rubber knee pads.[5]
- A clipboard with graph paper and a rough floor plan, so you can mark what you find and make sure you've covered the whole house.[5]
- Prune plants back from the walls first. Mud tubes can blend in with soil or concrete, and clear walls are easier to check.[5]
- Keep the soil line several inches below the top of the slab or foundation wall, which also makes the inspection easier.[5]
Outside
Look carefully for mud tubes along foundation walls and slabs, especially along cracks and in corners, and anywhere the top of the foundation sits close to the ground.[5]
- The foundation of the house, garage and other buildings, for shelter tubes coming up from the soil.[4]
- Attached porches, patios and sidewalks, and spots near kitchens and bathrooms.[4]
- Where utilities enter the house, around windows and door frames, and behind dense shrubs.[4]
- Fences, stair carriages, deck supports and trellises that touch soil; stumps, stored lumber and buried scrap wood near the house.[4][1]
- Cracks or damage in the foundation that termites could use to get in, and any spot where soil or a built-in planter sits above the top of the foundation.[5]
- Roof eaves and gutters with defects that let water leak and rot wood.[5][4]
- Exterior electrical meter or fuse boxes set into the wall: Texas A&M says to open and look inside, because they are a common point of infestation.[5]
- Wood near a swimming pool that gets splashed often.[5]
- Firewood, lumber or other wood stacked against the foundation, and mulch touching wood siding or door and window frames.[3]
Crawl space, basement and attic
Most hidden infestations sit in places like these, behind walls, in crawl spaces and under slabs. Check them only if you can get in safely.[9]
- Crawl spaces: look at the insides of beams, chimney bases, hearths and piers for shelter tubes, and look closely where the floor and the top of the foundation wall meet.[5]
- Mud tubes on crawl space piers, near utility openings, on foundation walls and slabs, and in cracks in concrete floors. Kansas State also lists holes where pipes and ducts go through the slab.[5][6]
- Plumbing and utility lines passing through the floor or foundation walls.[5]
- Standing water under the house, and leaks under earth-filled porches, patios, planters and bathrooms. Texas A&M says standing water under the house should be removed.[5]
- Attics: look for shelter tubes, water leaks, wood rot and damaged wood.[5]
- Clearance: Texas A&M calls for at least 18 inches between floor joists and the soil and at least 12 inches under floor beams. Kansas State says beams should be at least 18 inches above the ground so the space can be inspected.[5][6]
Inside
- Interior walls for shelter tubes, and discolored or blistered paint and wallboard.[4]
- Baseboards, door and window facings and hardwood floors, probed gently.[4]
- Bathroom plumbing on slab homes (a bath-trap access panel helps), the attic, and the crawl space.[4]
- Windowsills and floor edges for shed wings.[3]
- Floor coverings that are raised or split, and cracks or expansion joints in the foundation where you can see them.[5]
- Ceilings and walls with water stains. Leaks can decay wood and help termites get established.[5]
- Tiny holes through drywall or plaster with bits of soil around the edge, and rippled or sunken lines under wallpaper or other wall coverings.[2]
- Mud-filled joints in wood framing, paneling and trim in finished rooms.[6]
- Probe finished wood gently. Texas A&M says to sound or probe door and window facings, baseboards and hardwood floors without marring the finish.[5]
Testing a mud tube
Subterranean termite tubes are made of soil, bits of wood and debris. Kentucky Extension describes them as typically about the width of a pencil, though some are thicker.[2][5]
- Break a section open and look for small, creamy-white workers, or workers and soldiers running through it. Kentucky Extension says this helps tell whether an infestation is active.[9][2]
- An empty tube doesn't mean the termites are gone. They often abandon one section while feeding somewhere else in the house.[2][7]
- Check the same spot again later. NC State says termites often rebuild damaged tubes, which is another sign of current activity.[7]
- Old tubes are dry and crumble easily and can leave an etched mark on the surface for years, showing termites were there at some point.[7]
- Tubes on ceilings or upper floors can mean the colony is living in the building above ground. NC State says these infestations occur where there is a serious moisture problem or leak. Fixing the moisture is the first step, and the usual soil treatment won't control them.[7]
- UC IPM describes four kinds of tubes: working tubes from the soil up to wood, exploratory tubes that come up from the soil but don't reach wood, drop tubes that hang from wood back down to the soil, and swarm tubes that winged termites leave from.[9]
Tapping and probing wood
Damage is often hidden. Kentucky Extension notes that termites can feed on exposed wood while the outer surface stays intact, so look for these signs as well as checking what you can see.[2]
- Tap wood with the handle of a screwdriver or a hammer. A hollow or dull, thudding sound can mean the wood is damaged.[7][5]
- Probe wood near the foundation, and anywhere wood touches soil, with an ice pick or screwdriver. EPA suggests a flathead screwdriver for checking exposed wood for hollow spots.[6][5][8]
- If the wood breaks or is soft and easily punctured, look at the galleries inside. Subterranean termite tunnels follow the grain and contain soil or mud; Kansas State notes termites aren't always present in them.[6][2][5]
- A thin, gritty, gray-brown film on the surface of damaged material is another sign of termite feeding.[7]
- Darkened or blistered structural wood can mean an infestation; wood in damaged areas is usually thin at the surface.[9]
- You can't tell how old damage is. Texas A&M, Kansas State and NC State all say there is no reliable way to date it, which matters when a contract covers only new damage.[5][6][7]
Moisture and moisture meters
Subterranean termites need moist conditions and are often found in wood that is slightly decayed. Kentucky Extension says they are more likely to infest when the soil next to the foundation stays moist, and advises fixing leaks and reducing crawl space moisture.[9][3]
- Texas A&M says a moisture meter can find moisture in walls that may point to conducive conditions, shelter tubes or hidden nests, and calls it extremely helpful for finding termites hidden in walls and ceilings.[5][4]
- Nebraska Extension suggests homeowners hire a home inspector or pest professional who owns a moisture meter and is experienced in using it.[12]
- Professional inspectors may also use fiber optic scopes, acoustic and motion detectors, X-ray, infrared cameras and gas detectors. Texas A&M notes none of these guarantees that every termite or bit of damage will be found.[5]
- Check the soil next to the foundation for poor grading that keeps it wet, and make sure gutters, downspouts and sprinklers send water away from the house.[5][3]
Drywood termite signs
Most drywood termite nests stay entirely above ground with no connection to the soil. UC IPM says their fecal pellets, which pile up on surfaces below openings in the wood, may be the first clue.[9][10]
- Pellets have six flattened sides; UC IPM calls them diagnostic for drywood termites. Texas A&M describes them as about 1/32 inch long and usually the color of the wood the termites are eating.[10][11]
- Kick-out holes: small holes, less than 2 mm across, that the termites push pellets out through.[10]
- Pellets alone don't show whether the infestation is still active or how far it extends. UC IPM says finding the full extent takes experience and is best done by a professional.[10]
If you find swarmers or wings
Swarmers coming out indoors almost always mean an infestation that needs treatment. Swarms from stumps or woodpiles out in the yard don't automatically mean the house is infested, but swarmers emerging next to the foundation or from an attached porch or patio point to a good chance it is.[2][7]
- Swarmers that come out inside can't damage wood and live only about a day. A broom or vacuum takes care of them.[2]
- Look for shed wings near windows, doors and indoor lights, and in spider webs.[6][5]
- Not sure if they're termites or ants? Save a few in a vial of 70% alcohol to keep the wings intact, and show them to a pest professional or your county Extension office.[5][7]
- Spraying the swarmers or the surface of wood you can reach kills the termites you see, but NC State says it doesn't stop the infestation or protect the house.[7]
When to call a professional
Most homeowners don't know they have subterranean termites until something turns up: a real estate inspection, damage found during a remodel, a tube on a wall, or a swarm indoors.[1]
Signs are often in dark and sometimes hazardous places such as attics and tight crawl spaces with nails and standing water.[1]
Pest control companies often offer free termite inspections and will point out conditions that attract termites.[3]
UC IPM says an inspection by a licensed pest management professional is required before any treatment can be done, and that regular inspections every 3 to 5 years help catch infestations before they cause much damage. NC State recommends annual inspections and keeping the records, so later damage can be compared with a known starting point.[9][7]
- If you suspect termites, UC IPM says to call a professional. Kentucky Extension says confirming termites often takes a professional's eye, and even an experienced inspector can miss hidden signs.[9][2]
- Don't rush. Termites don't do serious damage in a few days or weeks; NC State says serious damage usually takes about 3 to 8 years, and Kansas State notes a mature colony eats only about one fifth of an ounce of wood a day.[7][6]
- If you already have a termite contract, call that company first. If not, NC State suggests having two or three companies (or more) inspect and explain their findings before you decide.[7]
- Treating an infested house yourself isn't recommended. Kentucky Extension says it takes knowledge of building construction and equipment such as masonry drills, large spray tanks and soil-injection rods.[2]
- Make a note of any area you couldn't inspect.[5]
Common questions
- How often should I have a termite inspection?
- UC IPM advises professional inspection every several years for homes with a history of subterranean termites; buying or selling a home normally requires an inspection report.[1][2]
- Can I inspect for termites myself?
- You can check the accessible areas for mud tubes, wings and damaged wood, and fix moisture and wood-to-soil problems. Extension specialists at Texas A&M and UC IPM still recommend a licensed inspector, because termites hide in walls, crawl spaces and under slabs.[5][9]
- What does an empty mud tube mean?
- Not much on its own. Termites often abandon one section of tube while feeding elsewhere, so an empty tube doesn't prove they're gone. A tube that gets rebuilt after you break it shows current activity.[2][7]
- Do I need a moisture meter?
- It helps but isn't required. Texas A&M lists a moisture meter among inspection tools for finding wet spots, tubes and hidden nests in walls. Nebraska Extension suggests hiring an inspector who owns one and knows how to use it.[5][12]
- How do I know if termite damage is old or new?
- You usually can't. Texas A&M, Kansas State and NC State all say there's no reliable way to date termite damage, which is why NC State recommends keeping records from regular inspections.[5][6][7]
Sources
- University of California Statewide IPM Program, “Pest Notes: Subterranean and Other Termites, Publication 7415 (May 2014).” ipm.ucanr.edu/legacy_assets/PDF/PESTNOTES/pntermites.pdf (accessed 2026-10-06)
- University of Kentucky Entomology, “ENTFACT-604: Termite Control: Answers for Homeowners (revised March 2026).” entomology.mgcafe.uky.edu/ef604 (accessed 2026-10-06)
- University of Kentucky Entomology, “ENTFACT-605: Protecting your Home Against Termites (revised March 2026).” entomology.mgcafe.uky.edu/ef605 (accessed 2026-10-06)
- Texas A&M AgriLife Extension, “Formosan Subterranean Termites, E-367.” extensionentomology.tamu.edu/wp-content/uploads/sites/3/2017/01/Formosan-subterranean-termites-E367.pdf (accessed 2026-10-06)
- Texas A&M AgriLife Extension, “Subterranean Termites, E-368 (R.E. Gold, K.M. Schofield, E. Brown and M. Keck, 9/10).” extensionentomology.tamu.edu/wp-content/uploads/sites/3/2017/01/Subterranean-termites-E368.pdf (accessed 2026-11-10)
- Kansas State University Agricultural Experiment Station and Cooperative Extension Service, “Termites, MF-722.” bookstore.ksre.ksu.edu/pubs/MF722.pdf (accessed 2026-11-10)
- NC State Extension, “Termites: Biology and Control.” content.ces.ncsu.edu/termites-biology-and-control (accessed 2026-11-10)
- U.S. Environmental Protection Agency, “Termites: How to Identify and Control Them.” www.epa.gov/safepestcontrol/termites-how-identify-and-control-them (accessed 2026-11-10)
- University of California Statewide IPM Program, “Pest Notes: Subterranean and Other Termites, Publication 7415 (web edition).” ipm.ucanr.edu/home-and-landscape/subterranean-and-other-termites/ (accessed 2026-11-10)
- University of California Statewide IPM Program, “Pest Notes: Drywood Termites.” ipm.ucanr.edu/home-and-landscape/drywood-termites/ (accessed 2026-11-10)
- Texas A&M University, Urban and Structural Entomology Program, “Drywood Termites.” urbanentomology.tamu.edu/urban-pests/termites/drywood/ (accessed 2026-11-10)
- University of Nebraska-Lincoln Extension, “Carpenter Ant Management, NebGuide G1738 (revised August 2019).” extensionpubs.unl.edu/publication/g1738/na/html/view (accessed 2026-11-10)