The short answer
- Winged termites or shed wings indoors almost always mean the house is infested; mud tubes on the foundation are the most common sign of subterranean termites.[3][1][10]
- Termites damage wood slowly. Take time to get inspections from more than one licensed company rather than signing on the spot.[3][9]
- Treating an infested home yourself isn't recommended. NPIC says do-it-yourself treatments may not work as well as professional ones and some termiticides can only be used by trained, licensed professionals; UC IPM says it's unlikely homeowners can control subterranean termites on their own.[3][1][9]
- You can lower the risk: remove wood-to-soil contact, keep the soil by the foundation dry, and keep firewood and mulch away from the house.[4][8][9]
Termite profiles
Which kind of termite?
EPA says the native subterranean termite is the most common termite in most of the United States; drywood termites and the invasive Formosan termite are less common. NPIC groups termites as drywood, subterranean and dampwood and says each type needs its own control measures, so identify the species before you choose a treatment.[8][9]
Subterranean termites live and breed in the soil, sometimes many feet down. Drywood termites live deep inside wood, don't need contact with soil and are hard to detect. Dampwood termites live in moist wood.[1][2]
Termite or ant?
Termites have straight antennae, a uniformly thick waist and wings of equal size. Ants have elbowed antennae, a pinched waist and front wings longer than the hind wings. Both often swarm in spring.[3][8][9]
If you can't tell, NC State suggests showing the insects to a pest management professional or taking specimens to a county Cooperative Extension office.[10]
Signs of termites
EPA notes that termites rarely come out of the soil, mud tubes or the wood they're feeding in, so most people don't know they have termites until they see a swarm or find damage during construction. NC State adds that without periodic inspection, activity can go unnoticed for years.[8][10]
- Pencil-wide mud tubes on foundations, piers, sill plates or joists. Break one open: creamy-white workers mean it is active. NC State adds that an empty tube doesn't prove the termites are gone; they may have just abandoned that tunnel, and they often rebuild broken tubes.[3][4][1][10]
- Swarmers or piles of shed wings on windowsills and along floors.[4][3][10]
- Where you see swarmers matters. NC State says swarmers outdoors near stumps or landscape timbers don't mean your house is infested, but swarming indoors usually does.[10][3]
- Wood hollowed out along the grain with mud or soil in the galleries (subterranean termites).[3][4]
- Small piles of six-sided fecal pellets below kickout holes in wood (drywood termites).[2]
- Darkened or blistered wood that is thin at the surface and easy to puncture. EPA suggests probing exposed wood for hollow spots with a flathead screwdriver.[1][8]
How termites are treated
EPA registers termiticides only after they show they can protect a structure. Approved treatments include liquid soil-applied termiticides, termite baits, building materials impregnated with termiticides and wood treatments, and EPA says that in most cases termiticides can only be applied properly by a trained pest management professional.[8]
- Liquid soil termiticides: applied around and under the foundation. Non-repellent products such as fipronil, imidacloprid and chlorantraniliprole kill termites that tunnel through treated soil. UKY says all liquid termiticides are supposed to control termites for at least five years when applied according to label directions, though how long it lasts on a given home varies with the product, how thoroughly it was applied and local conditions.[1][3][8]
- Baits: cellulose bait with a slow-acting active ingredient in stations around the house. Termites share it and the colony declines over weeks or months.[1][3][8]
- Fumigation and heat: used for drywood termites, which live in the wood. They do not work on subterranean termites, whose colonies are in the soil. UC IPM describes heat as a nonchemical whole-structure option that heats all wood to at least 120°F and holds it for at least 33 minutes, and it separates whole-structure treatments from localized spot treatments of a board or a few boards.[1][2]
- Formosan termites usually enter a building from the ground, just as native subterranean termites do, so Mississippi State says soil treatments and in-ground baits are the primary preventive treatments. Above-ground carton nests aren't controlled by either and need targeted foam or other above-ground treatments.[5]
- Non-chemical options: EPA says physical barriers such as steel mesh and sands of certain sizes, usually put in during construction, have performed well. Borates are commonly sprayed on wood during new construction.[8]
Protecting your home
- Keep wood siding and door and window frames at least six inches above the soil, and support posts and steps on concrete.[4]
- Divert water with gutters and downspouts, fix leaks, and grade soil to drain away from the foundation.[4][8][9]
- Ventilate crawl spaces and consider plastic sheeting over most of the crawl space soil.[4][9]
- Don't store firewood or debris against the foundation, and use mulch sparingly next to the house. NPIC suggests storing firewood several feet from buildings and off the ground and keeping mulch several inches below wooden parts of the home.[4][9]
- Fill cracks in the foundation and gaps where utilities pass through walls with cement, grout or caulk, keep vents clear of plants, and don't let shrubs grow against exposed wood.[8][9]
- Where termites are common, a preventive treatment by a professional firm is a prudent investment; if the home has a warranty, keep it renewed.[4]
Choosing a termite company
The company must be licensed by your state. Ask to see the license, and if you have concerns call your state pesticide regulatory agency. Get inspections and estimates from more than one company, ask about warranties, and avoid firms that pressure you with specials or scare tactics.[3][7][8][9]
Spot treatments are usually a gamble; most reputable firms won't warrant them.[3]
EPA suggests asking the company for a copy of the product label and making sure the applicator tells you when you can go back into the house. To report a misapplication, contact your state pesticide regulatory agency; NPIC also answers pesticide questions at 1-800-858-7378.[8]
Dampwood termites
Dampwood termites infest decayed wood kept moist by soil contact or a leak; in California they are most common in cool, humid coastal areas. Their presence signals a moisture or decay problem.[1]
NPIC's general advice when you find termite nests is to remove the damaged wood and eliminate the excess moisture.[9]
Common questions
- Do I need to call someone today?
- No. Termites damage wood slowly, so the damage from taking days or weeks to choose a company is generally inconsequential.[3][9]
- Are hybrid termites a new threat?
- Hybrid Formosan and Asian subterranean termites have been found in southeast Florida, but they are rare and UF/IFAS says control recommendations are unchanged.[6]
- Can I treat termites myself?
- For an infested house, extension and NPIC advise against it. UKY calls termite treatment a job for professionals, with a possible exception for a small wooden object not attached to the house, such as a mailbox post, and NPIC says some termiticides can only be used by trained, licensed professionals.[3][9]
- Does tenting work on subterranean termites?
- No. UC IPM says fumigation, heat and similar drywood methods don't reach subterranean colonies, which nest near or below ground. NC State says structural fumigation is rarely used for subterranean termites in North Carolina; most home fumigations there are for drywood termites or wood-boring beetles.[1][10]
Every termite guide
- Hybrid termites: what the research shows
- Termite swarmers: what they mean
- Termite swarmers vs flying ants
- Signs of termite damage
- How to check your home for termites
- How to protect your home from termites
- Termite treatments compared
- What pest control costs depend on
- Choosing a company and warranty
- Types of termites and how to tell them apart
- How to read a termite inspection report
- Termite treatment options and comparing bids
- What to expect from a liquid termite treatment
- Tenting for termites: how to prepare
- Termite reports when buying or selling a home
Photo credits
- Eastern Subterranean Termite: (c) Sam Kieschnick, some rights reserved (CC BY) — via iNaturalist, CC BY 4.0
- Formosan Subterranean Termite: (c) ncb1221, some rights reserved (CC BY) — via iNaturalist, CC BY 4.0
- Western Drywood Termite: (c) Jeremiah Degenhardt, some rights reserved (CC BY) — via iNaturalist, CC BY 4.0
- Florida Dampwood Termites: Damien Wallace, public domain (CC0), via iNaturalist
- Asian Subterranean Termite: (c) Carlos Alexandre Mattos Raposo, some rights reserved (CC BY) — via iNaturalist, CC BY 4.0
- Western Subterranean Termite: (c) Z, some rights reserved (CC BY) — via iNaturalist, CC BY 4.0
- Arid-land subterranean termite: (c) Wendy McCrady, some rights reserved (CC BY) — via iNaturalist, CC BY 4.0
- Desert Subterranean Termite: (c) Jake Nitta, some rights reserved (CC BY) — via iNaturalist, CC BY 4.0
- Desert termites: (c) Jake Nitta, some rights reserved (CC BY) — via iNaturalist, CC BY 4.0
- Southeastern Drywood Termite: (c) Alexis Smith, some rights reserved (CC BY) — via iNaturalist, CC BY 4.0
- West Indian Drywood Termite: (c) Robin White, some rights reserved (CC BY) — via iNaturalist, CC BY 4.0
- Light western drywood termite: (c) Jake Nitta, some rights reserved (CC BY) — via iNaturalist, CC BY 4.0
- Dampwood Termites: Ellyne Geurts, public domain (CC0), via iNaturalist
- Conehead Termite: (c) John Brew, some rights reserved (CC BY) — via iNaturalist, CC BY 4.0
Sources
- University of California Statewide IPM Program, “Pest Notes: Subterranean and Other Termites, Publication 7415 (May 2014).” ipm.ucanr.edu/legacy_assets/PDF/PESTNOTES/pntermites.pdf (accessed 2026-11-10)
- University of California Statewide IPM Program, “Pest Notes: Drywood Termites, Publication 7440 (August 2014).” ipm.ucanr.edu/legacy_assets/PDF/PESTNOTES/pndrywoodtermites.pdf (accessed 2026-11-10)
- University of Kentucky Entomology, “ENTFACT-604: Termite Control: Answers for Homeowners (revised March 2026).” entomology.mgcafe.uky.edu/ef604 (accessed 2026-11-10)
- University of Kentucky Entomology, “ENTFACT-605: Protecting your Home Against Termites (revised March 2026).” entomology.mgcafe.uky.edu/ef605 (accessed 2026-11-10)
- Mississippi State University Extension, “Species of Termites in Mississippi.” extension.msstate.edu/insects/termites/species-termites-mississippi (accessed 2026-11-10)
- University of Florida IFAS, “Here's what homeowners need to know about hybrid termites in Florida (June 8, 2026).” blogs.ifas.ufl.edu/news/2026/06/08/heres-what-homeowners-need-to-know-about-hybrid-termites-in-florida/ (accessed 2026-11-10)
- National Pesticide Information Center, “Selecting a Pest Control Company.” www.npic.orst.edu/pest/selectpco.html (accessed 2026-11-10)
- U.S. Environmental Protection Agency, “Termites: How to Identify and Control Them.” www.epa.gov/safepestcontrol/termites-how-identify-and-control-them (accessed 2026-11-10)
- National Pesticide Information Center, “Termites.” npic.orst.edu/pest/termite.html (accessed 2026-11-10)
- NC State Extension, “Termites - Biology and Control.” content.ces.ncsu.edu/termites-biology-and-control (accessed 2026-11-10)