Pest profile

Oriental Beetle

Anomala orientalis (Exomala orientalis) · Coleoptera: Scarabaeidae[4]

The oriental beetle is a small scarab beetle from Asia whose white grubs chew grass roots. In New Jersey and nearby areas it has become by far the most important white grub in turf, outranking the Japanese beetle.[1][3]

Oriental beetle adult, a small oval straw-colored scarab with variable black blotches on its wing covers and thorax, seen from above
Oriental beetle adult, a small oval straw-colored scarab with variable black blotches on its wing covers and thorax, seen from above. Photo: cgmayers, public domain (CC0), via iNaturalist

How to identify it

  • Adults are stout, oval beetles about 3/8 inch long, mostly straw-colored with variable black markings on the thorax and wing covers.[1]
  • Color varies a lot: some adults are nearly all straw-colored and others almost entirely brownish black.[1]
  • Grubs are cream-colored and C-shaped with a brown head and six short legs, and grow to about 1 inch long.[1][3]
  • Under a hand lens, the grub's raster, the hair pattern under the tip of the abdomen, shows parallel rows of dark hairs, though some related grubs have similar patterns.[3][1]

Look-alikes

Look-alikeHow to tell them apart
Japanese beetleJapanese beetle adults have a shiny metallic green head and body and coppery wing covers with white hair tufts; oriental beetles are tan to straw-colored with brown or black markings.[1][2]
Other white grubsGrubs of oriental beetle, Japanese beetle and masked chafers look alike and reach similar sizes; only the raster pattern under the tail tells them apart.[1][2]
Asiatic garden beetleAsiatic garden beetle adults are a dull, velvety chestnut brown with a faint iridescent sheen, and their grubs grow only to about 3/4 inch.[1]

Where it lives

First found in the United States in Connecticut in 1920, the oriental beetle now occurs through the Northeast, mid-Atlantic and parts of the Midwest and is slowly spreading south and west.[3][2]

Biology and life cycle

Adults emerge in June through August and are active mainly in the evening; they feed little, though some are seen on flower petals in June.[1][3][2]

After mating, females burrow back into the soil and lay 20 to 60 eggs in batches, usually 1 to 4 inches deep.[1]

Grubs feed on roots through late summer and fall, move deeper to overwinter, then feed again for 4 to 6 weeks in spring before pupating.[1]

Females also lay eggs in nursery container mixes, where grubs can badly damage the roots of potted trees and shrubs.[3]

Damage and signs

  • Grubs chew roots near the soil surface; the large late-summer grubs, combined with heat and drought, can kill turf quickly from late August to mid-October.[1]
  • Early signs are thinning, yellowing and wilting despite watering, followed by dead patches where turf feels spongy and peels up like a carpet.[1]
  • Skunks, raccoons, crows and moles tearing up turf to eat grubs often cause worse damage than the grubs themselves.[1][2]
  • Root damage done in fall often isn't noticed until the following spring.[2]

Health risk

Oriental beetle grubs harm the roots of turf and ornamental plants, and the adults feed very little.[1][3]

Control

Prevention

Keep turf vigorous with proper watering, fertilizing and mowing; tall fescue tolerates grub feeding best among cool-season grasses, and perennial ryegrass least.[1]

Traps and physical control

In mid-August, cut soil plugs or square-foot samples in a grid and count grubs; treatment is usually justified only above about 6 to 10 oriental beetle grubs per square foot.[1][3]

Biological control

Commercial Heterorhabditis nematodes work well on Japanese beetle grubs but are less effective on oriental beetle grubs, and milky spore products don't affect oriental beetles at all.[1][2]

Pesticides

Preventive grub insecticides work best applied in June or July while females are laying eggs; Tennessee State recommends granular imidacloprid in late summer or early fall for young grubs.[1][3]

For curative control, treat while grubs are still small, from mid-August to early September, and water in about 1/4 inch afterward.[1]

Why some grub products disappoint

Halofenozide gives only about 50 percent control of oriental beetle grubs, so the choice of active ingredient matters.[1]

Pyrethroid insecticides bind to organic matter as they move into soil and don't control grubs; check that the label lists grubs, not just surface insects.[2]

Adult male oriental beetles can be lured to traps baited with a commercial sex pheromone.[3]

Common questions

Are the grubs in my lawn Japanese beetles?
Not necessarily. In much of the Northeast most lawn grubs are oriental beetles, which you can confirm by checking the raster pattern with a hand lens.[2][1]
Will milky spore work on oriental beetle grubs?
No. The commercial milky disease strain is effective only against Japanese beetle grubs.[1][2]

Sources

  1. Rutgers Cooperative Extension, New Jersey Agricultural Experiment Station, “An Integrated Approach to Insect Management in Turfgrass: White Grubs (Fact Sheet FS1009).” njaes.rutgers.edu/fs1009/ (accessed 2026-10-06)
  2. Penn State Extension, “Not All Grubs Are Alike (updated March 17, 2025).” extension.psu.edu/not-all-grubs-are-alike (accessed 2026-10-06)
  3. Tennessee State University Cooperative Extension, “Oriental Beetle (Disaster Education Resource Team, February 2016).” www.tnstate.edu/extension/documents/DERT_Oriental%20beetle%20with%20Figures.pdf (accessed 2026-10-06)
  4. iNaturalist, “Exomala orientalis taxon page (order and family).” www.inaturalist.org/taxa/359401 (accessed 2026-10-06)

Updated 2026-10-06. Built from sourced records. Spot an error? Tell us.