Pest profile

Mealybugs

Planococcus citri · Hemiptera: Pseudococcidae[5]

Mealybugs are soft, oval insects covered in white wax that suck sap from houseplants and outdoor plants. They thrive indoors and where winters are mild, and their wax and hiding habits make them hard to reach with sprays.[1]

Cluster of citrus mealybugs, small oval insects coated in white powdery wax, packed into the joints of a green plant stem
Cluster of citrus mealybugs, small oval insects coated in white powdery wax, packed into the joints of a green plant stem. (c) Carlos Alexandre Mattos Raposo, some rights reserved (CC BY) — via iNaturalist, CC BY 4.0

How to identify it

  • Adult females are wingless, about 1/8 inch long, with oval, segmented bodies dusted in white wax and short wax filaments around the edges.[1][3]
  • The citrus mealybug often shows a faint dark stripe down the back; the longtailed mealybug has two tail filaments longer than its body.[1][3]
  • Females lay eggs in white, cottony egg sacs, so infested plants can look like they have bits of cotton stuck to them.[1][3]
  • Colonies tuck into protected spots: leaf joints, branch crotches, plant crowns, stems near the soil and between touching fruits.[1][2]
  • Adult males are rarely seen; they are tiny two-winged insects with long white tail threads.[1][2]

Look-alikes

Look-alikeHow to tell them apart
Cottony cushion scale and soft scalesThese also make wax and honeydew; check the insect under the wax to confirm a segmented, legged mealybug.[1]
WhitefliesWhitefly nymphs are flat, legless-looking and fixed in place, while mealybug nymphs and adults keep their legs and can crawl.[1][4]

Where it lives

The citrus mealybug is native to Asia and now occurs through the Americas, Europe and Oceania, thriving outdoors where winters are mild and on indoor plants elsewhere.[3][1]

Biology and life cycle

Most females lay 100 to 200 or more eggs over 10 to 20 days; a citrus mealybug female can lay 300 to 600.[1][3]

Newly hatched crawlers are yellow to pink, wax-free and mobile; they soon settle to feed and start producing wax.[1]

Females can't fly, so they spread on new plants, pots and tools or are carried by ants; tiny nymphs can also be blown by wind.[1][2]

Mealybugs have two to six generations a year, and indoors or in warm climates all stages may be present year-round.[1]

Damage and signs

  • Feeding weakens plants; heavy infestations slow growth and cause leaves to yellow, wilt and drop.[1][3]
  • Sticky honeydew falls on leaves and fruit below and grows black sooty mold.[1][3]
  • Some plants react strongly to citrus mealybug saliva, which can cause stunting, wilting or dieback.[2]
  • Common houseplant targets include cactus, dracaena, ferns, ficus, hoya, jade, orchids, palms, philodendron, schefflera, poinsettia, rosemary and coleus.[1][2]

Health risk

Mealybugs feed only on plants; the harm is weakened plants, sticky honeydew, sooty mold and ruined appearance.[1][2]

Control

Prevention

Inspect new plants closely before bringing them home or planting them, and return or discard any that carry mealybugs.[1]

Go easy on nitrogen fertilizer, which spurs the tender growth where mealybugs prefer to lay eggs.[1]

Traps and physical control

Handpick or prune out small infestations, and check pots and stakes for egg sacs. Discard badly infested houseplants rather than treating them over and over.[1]

On houseplants, dab mealybugs with a cotton swab dipped in 70% or weaker rubbing alcohol; test a small area first for leaf burn and repeat weekly.[1][2]

Biological control

Outdoors, parasitic wasps, lady beetles such as the mealybug destroyer, lacewings and spiders usually keep mealybugs in check; keep ants away and avoid broad-spectrum sprays.[1]

Pesticides

Insecticidal soap, horticultural oil or neem oil sprayed directly on young mealybugs can reduce numbers; egg sacs shield eggs, so plan on two or three weekly treatments.[1][2]

Systemic products with dinotefuran or imidacloprid are less reliable on mealybugs than on other sap feeders and should be avoided on flowering plants to protect pollinators.[1]

Common questions

What is the white cottony stuff on my houseplant?
Often mealybugs or their egg sacs. Look in leaf joints and along stems for small, oval, wax-covered insects and sticky honeydew.[1][2]
Does rubbing alcohol kill mealybugs?
Yes, on small houseplant infestations. Dab them with 70% or weaker isopropyl alcohol on a cotton swab after testing the plant for leaf burn.[1][2]
Why don't sprays work well on mealybugs?
Their waxy coating repels most contact insecticides, and they cluster in hidden crevices that sprays can't reach.[1]

Sources

  1. University of California Statewide IPM Program, “Mealybugs (Pest Notes, Home and Landscape).” ipm.ucanr.edu/home-and-landscape/mealybugs/ (accessed 2026-10-06)
  2. NC State Extension, “Citrus Mealybug (PDIC Factsheet, reviewed August 10, 2023).” content.ces.ncsu.edu/citrus-mealybug (accessed 2026-10-06)
  3. University of Florida/IFAS Extension (EDIS), “Citrus Mealybug, Planococcus citri (Risso) (Featured Creatures, IN947).” edis.ifas.ufl.edu/publication/IN947 (accessed 2026-10-06)
  4. University of California Statewide IPM Program, “Whiteflies (Pest Notes, Home and Landscape).” ipm.ucanr.edu/home-and-landscape/whiteflies/ (accessed 2026-10-06)
  5. iNaturalist, “Planococcus citri taxon page (order and family).” www.inaturalist.org/taxa/330251 (accessed 2026-10-06)

Updated 2026-10-06. Built from sourced records. Spot an error? Tell us.