Pest profile

Rat snakes

Pantherophis obsoletus (western ratsnake) and P. alleghaniensis (eastern ratsnake) · Squamata: Colubridae[7][1]

Rat snakes are large, nonvenomous constrictors that are common around homes, barns and farm buildings, where they hunt rodents. They are harmless to people and widely considered beneficial, though they also take eggs and chicks.[1][2]

Black adult ratsnake with a white chin stretched along a tree branch while climbing
Black adult ratsnake with a white chin stretched along a tree branch while climbing. (c) hr_dragonfly, some rights reserved (CC BY) — via iNaturalist, CC BY 4.0

How to identify it

  • Adults are long snakes, usually 3-1/2 to 6 feet, and sometimes longer.[1][2]
  • Western ratsnakes are usually shiny black above with a white upper lip, chin and throat, and a white belly that may be checkered black near the front.[1]
  • Young are gray or tan with dark blotches and a dark band through the eyes; western ratsnakes turn mostly black after a year or two.[1][2]
  • In Florida, adult eastern ratsnakes may be yellow, orange, tan or gray with four dark stripes running down the body.[2]
  • The pupils are round, and there is no heat-sensing pit between the eye and nostril.[2][3]
  • Excellent climbers, often found in trees, along barn beams, in attics and between walls.[1][2]

Look-alikes

Look-alikeHow to tell them apart
CopperheadCopperheads are venomous pit vipers with a pit on each side of the face and vertical pupils; blotched young ratsnakes have round pupils and no pits.[3][2][1]
RattlesnakesA cornered ratsnake may vibrate its tail and buzz in dry leaves, but it has no rattle, round pupils and no facial pits.[2][1][3]
Corn snakeCorn snakes are related harmless constrictors; young red cornsnakes are brownish red with a black-and-white checkerboard belly.[2]

Where it lives

The western ratsnake is found statewide in Missouri; its close relative P. alleghaniensis, which MDC calls the central ratsnake, lives east of the Mississippi River and ranges through most of Florida as the eastern ratsnake.[1][2]

Biology and life cycle

They live in woods, along streams, in fields and in suburbs, sheltering in brush piles, hollow trees, farm buildings and old houses where mice are plentiful.[1][2]

They eat rodents, bats, birds and bird eggs, frogs and lizards, killing larger prey by constriction.[1][2][4]

They often climb trees to raid bird nests and nest boxes, and will eat chicken eggs and chicks.[1][2]

Females lay about 4 to 44 eggs in rotting logs, stumps, sawdust or mulch piles, and the eggs hatch in late summer or fall.[1][2]

Active from about April through October, they hunt by day in mild weather and at night when it's hot.[1]

They spend winter in places like mammal burrows, rock crevices, old wells, cisterns and building foundations, and can live more than 20 years.[1]

Damage and signs

  • Snakes don't damage buildings, but rat snakes can get into structures that aren't sealed well enough to keep them out.[5][1]
  • The daily disappearance of eggs, swallowed whole with no shells left behind, is a classic sign of a snake in a henhouse.[5]
  • They help control rodents that damage crops and stored grain, without the poisons that can harm pets or people.[1][2]

Health risk

Rat snakes are nonvenomous and not dangerous to people or pets, though they bite in self-defense when cornered or grabbed and release a foul-smelling musk. Clean and treat a bite like any minor wound.[1][2][5]

Control

Prevention

Give the snake room; rat snakes are not aggressive, and virtually all bites happen when people grab or harass them.[2]

Keep them out

Seal gaps 1/8 inch and larger around doors, windows, pipes, utility lines and foundations, the same way you would for mice.[6]

A snake-proof fence of 1/4-inch hardware cloth keeps out most snakes, but some nonvenomous snakes are good climbers, and ratsnakes climb very well.[6][1]

Sanitation

Control rodents and store pet food and feed in sealed containers, since no rat snake control plan is complete without removing their prey.[6]

Keep grass mowed and clear away brush, boards, rocks and debris near buildings.[6]

Traps and physical control

To coax a snake out of a basement, ICWDM suggests damp towels or burlap covered with a dry one where it was seen, checked after a couple of days.[6]

When to call a professional

If a snake is inside and you're not comfortable moving it, call a wildlife control operator or your state wildlife agency.[6][3]

A helpful neighbor

Missouri's Department of Conservation calls ratsnakes valuable natural rodent control whose benefits far outweigh the occasional theft of eggs or chicks.[1]

The Florida Museum describes eastern ratsnakes as extremely beneficial because they eat so many pest species.[2]

Snakes are protected as nongame wildlife in most states and should never be killed indiscriminately.[3]

What doesn't work

Snake repellents are sold, but none has research showing it works well in real-world use.[6]

No toxicants are registered for snakes.[6]

Common questions

Is the big black snake in my barn dangerous?
Probably not. A long, shiny black snake with a white chin is likely a ratsnake, which is harmless to people and eats rodents.[1]
Why is there a snake in my chicken coop?
Rat snakes are drawn to eggs, chicks and the rodents around feed, which is why they're nicknamed chicken snakes; seal the coop and store feed tightly.[2][1][6]
Is it a baby copperhead or a rat snake?
Look from a safe distance. Young ratsnakes are gray with dark blotches but have round pupils and no facial pits. If you're unsure, keep your distance and don't handle it.[1][2][3][5]

Sources

  1. Missouri Department of Conservation, “Western Ratsnake (Field Guide).” mdc.mo.gov/discover-nature/field-guide/western-ratsnake (accessed 2026-10-06)
  2. Florida Museum of Natural History, University of Florida, “Eastern Ratsnake (Florida Snake ID Guide).” www.floridamuseum.ufl.edu/florida-snake-id/snake/eastern-ratsnake/ (accessed 2026-10-06)
  3. Internet Center for Wildlife Damage Management, “Snakes: Identification.” icwdm.org/species/reptiles/snakes/ (accessed 2026-10-06). Run by university wildlife damage specialists (maintained at the University of Wisconsin-Stevens Point); species modules are based on Prevention and Control of Wildlife Damage (University of Nebraska Cooperative Extension, 1994).
  4. Internet Center for Wildlife Damage Management, “Snake Biology.” icwdm.org/species/reptiles/snakes/snake-biology/ (accessed 2026-10-06). Run by university wildlife damage specialists (maintained at the University of Wisconsin-Stevens Point); species modules are based on Prevention and Control of Wildlife Damage (University of Nebraska Cooperative Extension, 1994).
  5. Internet Center for Wildlife Damage Management, “Snake Damage Identification.” icwdm.org/species/reptiles/snakes/snake-damage-identification/ (accessed 2026-10-06). Run by university wildlife damage specialists (maintained at the University of Wisconsin-Stevens Point); species modules are based on Prevention and Control of Wildlife Damage (University of Nebraska Cooperative Extension, 1994).
  6. Internet Center for Wildlife Damage Management, “Snake Damage Prevention and Control Methods.” icwdm.org/species/reptiles/snakes/snake-damage-prevention-and-control-methods/ (accessed 2026-10-06). Run by university wildlife damage specialists (maintained at the University of Wisconsin-Stevens Point); species modules are based on Prevention and Control of Wildlife Damage (University of Nebraska Cooperative Extension, 1994).
  7. iNaturalist, “Pantherophis obsoletus taxon page (order and family).” www.inaturalist.org/taxa/73888 (accessed 2026-10-06)

Updated 2026-10-06. Built from sourced records. Spot an error? Tell us.