Pest profile

European Chafer

Amphimallon majale · Coleoptera: Scarabaeidae[7]

The European chafer is an invasive beetle whose C-shaped white grubs are a severe pest of lawns. The grubs feed longer during the year than Japanese beetle grubs, so they are considered more destructive to turf.[2][1]

Adult European chafer, a reddish-tan scarab beetle about half an inch long with ridged wing covers, seen from above on white
Adult European chafer, a reddish-tan scarab beetle about half an inch long with ridged wing covers, seen from above on white. Photo: Allan Harris, public domain (CC0), via iNaturalist

How to identify it

  • Adults are oval scarab beetles about 1/2 inch long, tan to reddish brown or brick red.[2][1][3]
  • Grubs are grayish white and C-shaped, with a reddish-yellow to brown head and six obvious legs, reaching about 3/4 to nearly 1 inch.[2][3]
  • The grub's anal slit is Y-shaped, and the spines on the underside of the last segment form two lines.[3][5]
  • Because the grubs look so much like other white grubs, you need a close look at the tip of the abdomen.[2]

Look-alikes

Look-alikeHow to tell them apart
Japanese beetleJapanese beetle adults are shiny metallic green, and their grubs have raster spines that form a V.[3]
May and June beetlesThe adults look alike, but May and June beetles are usually a little larger and darker.[2]
Masked chafersMasked chafer grubs have raster spines scattered at random with no distinct rows.[6]

Where it lives

First found in the U.S. in New York in 1940, it now occurs in about 10 states, including parts of Michigan and Wisconsin; it reached Minnesota in 2020 and is spreading in Washington's south Puget Sound region.[2][1]

Biology and life cycle

Adults emerge in June, a couple of weeks before Japanese beetles, and swarm around trees and shrubs at dusk on warm, clear nights to mate.[2][3][1]

Eggs are laid from late June into early August, and the grubs hatch and start feeding on roots within one to two weeks.[1][3]

Dry soil in July and August kills many eggs.[3]

Grubs keep feeding into fall and, in Washington, through winter, then pupate in April and May; there is one generation a year.[1][3]

Damage and signs

  • Grubs eat roots and root crowns, causing brown to yellow spots that grow larger over successive years and may die and fill with weeds.[1]
  • Badly damaged turf can be rolled back like a rug because the roots are gone.[3]
  • Raccoons, skunks and crows often cause the worst visible damage by tearing up turf to eat the grubs.[1][3]
  • Stressed lawns suffer most, while well-kept lawns tolerate more grubs before showing damage.[1][3]

Health risk

European chafers don't bite or sting; the adults are not pests, and the harm comes from grubs eating lawn roots.[2][1]

Control

Prevention

Grow healthy turf: water as needed for about an inch a week from late May to early September, fertilize appropriately, and mow regularly.[1]

Before treating, cut three sides of a square of sod next to damaged areas, roll it back, count the grubs, and repeat in several spots.[1][3]

Thresholds vary: Maine Extension uses 5 to 8 grubs per square foot, while WSU says well-kept lawns can tolerate up to 20.[4][1]

Reseed damaged areas in fall or spring to restore the turf.[1]

Biological control

Milky spore disease affects only Japanese beetle grubs, and beneficial nematodes need moist soil and have survived poorly in New Hampshire soils because of wide temperature swings.[3]

Pesticides

Don't treat in fall or winter. WSU advises planning a preventive treatment for July or August of the next season when counts top 25 to 30 grubs per square foot.[1]

WSU lists bifenthrin, chlorantraniliprole, cyfluthrin, permethrin, spinosad and zeta-cypermethrin for those July to August treatments; keep products off flowering plants.[1]

When to call a professional

Some grub insecticide ingredients are limited to licensed applicators, so consider hiring a professional for severe infestations.[1]

Common questions

Why are crows and raccoons ripping up my lawn in winter?
In areas with European chafer, they may be digging for grubs, which keep feeding through winter in places like western Washington.[1]
Does milky spore work on European chafer grubs?
No. The milky spore agent controls only Japanese beetle grubs.[3]
When should I treat for European chafer?
Confirm grub numbers first, then use preventive treatments in July or August after egg laying; WSU advises against fall and winter applications.[1]

Sources

  1. Washington State University Extension, “Lawn and Turf: European Chafer (HortSense, reviewed 2026).” hortsense.cahnrs.wsu.edu/fact-sheet/lawn-and-turf-european-chafer/ (accessed 2026-10-06)
  2. University of Minnesota Extension, “European chafer (reviewed 2024).” extension.umn.edu/lawn-insects/european-chafer (accessed 2026-10-06)
  3. University of New Hampshire Cooperative Extension, “White Grubs (Pest Fact Sheet 23, updated July 2016).” extension.unh.edu/resources/files/Resource002814_Rep4169.pdf (accessed 2026-10-06)
  4. University of Maine Cooperative Extension, Home and Garden IPM, “European Chafer.” extension.umaine.edu/home-and-garden-ipm/fact-sheets/common-name-listing/european-chafer/ (accessed 2026-10-06)
  5. Cornell University Department of Entomology, Soil Arthropod Ecology Lab, “Grub ID: Small Grubs, Double Arch, Raster Pattern 1.” grubid.cals.cornell.edu/small-grubs/small-double-arch/small-double-raster-1/ (accessed 2026-10-06)
  6. Ohio State University Extension, “Masked Chafers (ENT-51).” ohioline.osu.edu/factsheet/ENT-51 (accessed 2026-10-06)
  7. iNaturalist, “Amphimallon majale taxon page (order and family).” www.inaturalist.org/taxa/360019 (accessed 2026-10-06)

Updated 2026-10-06. Built from sourced records. Spot an error? Tell us.