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Iris Borer

Macronoctua onusta[3]

The iris borer is the most destructive insect pest of iris. Its caterpillars tunnel down through the leaves and hollow out the rhizome.[1]

Group
Insect
Order
Lepidoptera
Family
Noctuidae
US records
27 states
Sources
3 cited
Updated
2026-10-15
Iris borer moth with chocolate-brown front wings and long antennae, resting on a pale surface
Iris borer moth with chocolate-brown front wings and long antennae, resting on a pale surface. (c) Owen Strickland, some rights reserved (CC BY) — via iNaturalist, CC BY 4.0
On this page
  1. Identification
  2. Look-alikes
  3. Where it lives
  4. Biology
  5. Damage and signs
  6. Health risk
  7. Control
  8. More from University of Maryland Extension
  9. Common questions
  10. Sources

How to identify it

  • Full-grown caterpillars are pinkish and about 1-1/2 to 2 inches long.[1]
  • Moths have chocolate-brown front wings and lighter yellow-brown hind wings spanning up to 2 inches, and they fly at night.[1]
  • Early signs are pinprick holes and tan or water-soaked streaks in the leaves.[1]

Look-alikes

Look-alikeHow to tell them apart
Iris leaf diseasesBacterial soft rot, iris scorch and fungal leaf spot also brown leaf tips, so check for caterpillars and tunnels before blaming borers.[1]

Where it lives

Minnesota Extension calls it the most destructive insect of iris; in Minnesota the caterpillars reach the rhizome by July.[1]

US map: public records from 27 states since 1990 (GBIF).

Biology and life cycle

Eggs overwinter on old iris leaves and debris at the base of the plants and hatch in early spring.[1]

Tiny caterpillars climb the new leaves, tunnel down and reach the rhizome by midsummer.[1]

In late July or August they pupate in the soil, and moths emerge in late summer or fall to lay eggs on old iris plants.[1]

Damage and signs

  • Feeding streaks can let in bacterial soft rot, which leaves rhizomes slimy, soft and foul smelling.[1]
  • Leaf tips brown and plants weaken, though whole plants rarely die.[1]

Health risk

It's a plant pest only; the Minnesota fact sheet notes nothing about people.[1]

Control

Prevention

Siberian iris tolerate borer attack better than other types.[1]

Sanitation

After a hard frost, remove and destroy old iris leaves, stems and nearby debris to kill the overwintering eggs.[1]

Traps and physical control

In spring, crush caterpillars inside the leaves or remove damaged leaves; in July, dig plants with dying leaves and discard infested rhizomes.[1]

Biological control

Steinernema or Heterorhabditis nematodes, applied to moist soil as leaves near full size, can reduce borer numbers.[1]

Pesticides

Where damage has occurred before, acephate or spinosad applied as eggs hatch, when leaves are 4 to 6 inches tall, can help; follow the label.[1]

More from University of Maryland Extension

It attacks bearded, Japanese and blue flag iris and Belamcanda; the moths fly at night from August through early October and lay eggs at the base of old iris leaves and debris.[2]

Common questions

Why are my iris leaf tips turning brown?
Iris borers are one cause, but bacterial soft rot, scorch and leaf spot look similar. Look for caterpillars and tunnels in leaves or rhizomes.[1]
When is the best time to clean up iris beds?
Any time after a hard frost, when moths have stopped laying eggs.[1]
Do I need to spray every year?
No. If your iris haven't been affected before, no pesticide is needed; just watch for early signs.[1]

Sources

  1. University of Minnesota Extension, “Iris borers (Yard and garden insects).” extension.umn.edu/yard-and-garden-insects/iris-borers (accessed 2026-10-06)
  2. University of Maryland Extension, “Iris Borer.” extension.umd.edu/resource/iris-borer (accessed 2026-10-15)
  3. iNaturalist, “Macronoctua onusta taxon page (order and family).” www.inaturalist.org/taxa/224312 (accessed 2026-10-06)

Updated 2026-10-15. Built from sourced records. Spot an error? Tell us.