How to get rid of groundhogs

Groundhog and marmot profiles

Groundhog (woodchuck) Marmota monax The groundhog, or woodchuck, is a burrowing member of the squirrel family found across eastern and central North America. It feeds on garden vegetables and clover by day and digs extensive burrows that can undermine foundations, sidewalks and pools. Marmots Marmota flaviventris The yellow-bellied marmot is a housecat-sized burrowing rodent of western North America and a close relative of the eastern groundhog. It feeds on grasses, clover and alfalfa, and in places such as Mineral King in Sequoia National Park it is known for chewing radiator hoses and car wiring.

Make sure it's a groundhog

The giveaway is the burrow. The main entrance is 10 to 12 inches across with a large mound of dug-out dirt in front of it, which ICWDM calls the porch. There are usually other entrances too, dug from below with no mound beside them, so they are easy to miss.^[1][3]

Groundhogs are active by day and feed mostly in the early morning and evening. They often bask near the burrow on rocks, logs or stone walls. For a description of the animal, its tracks and look-alikes, see the groundhog profile linked below.^[1][3][6]

• Garden damage: beans, peas, squash, tomatoes and other vegetables, plus clover and grasses. Penn State notes that a homeowner can lose an entire tomato patch.^[1][5]
• Gnawed trees, decks and siding: Connecticut DEEP says woodchucks gnaw and claw fruit and ornamental trees, and sometimes decks and house siding, to scent-mark and to wear down their teeth and claws after winter.^[5][4]
• Fruit trees: ICWDM says woodchucks climb cherry and apple trees and break limbs, which can be mistaken for raccoon damage. Kansas State's older fact sheet says they prefer fruit that has fallen to the ground.^[4][6]
• Burrows under structures: ICWDM says burrows can undermine building foundations, pools and sidewalks, and that woodchucks may gnaw pipes and wires. Montana State adds that digging under buildings can cause drainage problems.^[4][7]

Groundhog habits that matter for control

A groundhog usually stays close to home. Penn State and ICWDM say most range only 50 to 150 feet from the den in the daytime, and Kansas State says feeding woodchucks normally stay within 50 yards.^[1][3][6]

• Burrow size: Kansas State and Connecticut DEEP describe burrows 25 to 30 feet long and 2 to 5 feet deep; ICWDM gives up to 5 feet deep and 8 to 66 feet long. ICWDM notes that the tunnel and nest can end up near a foundation even when the entrance is some distance away.^[6][5][3][2]
• Hibernation: woodchucks are true hibernators. Penn State and ICWDM say hibernation runs from about late October or early November to late February and March, starting earlier and ending later farther north. Kansas State says it begins with the killing frosts, usually in October.^[1][3][6]
• Young: one litter a year, usually four young (two to six per Penn State, ICWDM and Connecticut DEEP; two to nine per Kansas State). Connecticut DEEP says they are born in April or May and begin foraging outside the den at 5 to 6 weeks of age.^[1][3][5][6]
• Dispersal: the young are weaned by late June or early July and soon leave to find their own dens, often moving into empty burrows. ICWDM says complaints rise in July as young disperse.^[1][3][6][2]
• Old burrows get reused. A burrow system can be used for several seasons, and empty ones shelter skunks, rabbits, foxes, opossums, weasels and other animals, so a burrow you leave open may get a new tenant.^[1][3][5]

Timing: spring young and the hibernation season

When you act matters as much as how. ICWDM says control is easiest in early spring and fall, when there is less other food to compete with bait. Kansas State raises two cautions for those same seasons: trapping a female in spring may cause the death of her young in the den, and a woodchuck trapped and released in autumn just before hibernation may not be able to find a winter den.^[2][6]

Connecticut DEEP recommends delaying removal until all the woodchucks, adults and young, can be removed. The young are weaned by late June or early July and leave the den soon after, so waiting until then lets the whole family be handled at once.^[5][1][3]

Groundhog under a shed, deck or porch

A shed or deck gives a groundhog a ready-made roof over its den. The lasting fix is a barrier of galvanized wire mesh along the openings, buried at least 1.5 to 2 feet underground so it can't dig beneath it, as Connecticut DEEP describes.^[5]

Connecticut DEEP's sequence is to remove the woodchuck first, by trapping, and then close the openings with mesh. Once the openings are closed, a trapped woodchuck can be released on the same property instead of being moved. Penn State likewise allows release elsewhere on the landowner's own property.^[5][1]

• Encourage it to leave: Connecticut DEEP says a radio playing constantly for a few days may cause a woodchuck to leave a burrow under a shed or deck.^[5]
• Find every hole: secondary entrances are dug from below, have no dirt mound and are often well hidden. Penn State says there are commonly one to three of them besides the main entrance.^[1][3]
• Check the calendar first: if it's spring or early summer, young may be in the den. See the timing section above before sealing anything.^[5][6]
• No gas cartridges under wooden sheds or buildings: Penn State and ICWDM warn of the fire hazard from the burning cartridge, and ICWDM also rules them out where people may be exposed to the fumes.^[1][2]

Fencing the garden

Penn State and Kansas State call fencing the most permanent control, and Kansas State says no other method is considered permanent. Groundhogs dig well and climb well, so a garden fence has to stop them below ground and at the top.^[1][6][2]

Penn State, ICWDM and Montana State call for a fence at least 3 feet high made of heavy poultry wire or 2-inch woven mesh wire, and Connecticut DEEP for a sturdy fence at least 3 feet high. Kansas State's 1992 fact sheet gives 2-inch by 4-inch mesh at least 2 feet above ground with an electrified strand on top. Penn State and ICWDM note that such a fence also keeps out rabbits, dogs and cats.^{[1][2][7][5][6]}

• Underground: sources disagree on how deep. ICWDM says to bury the lower edge 2 inches and bend it outward in an L, with an 18-inch skirt; Montana State says 10 to 12 inches; Penn State says 12 inches with the lower 6 inches bent outward; Kansas State says 1 foot with the bottom bent outward at 90 degrees; Connecticut DEEP says 1.5 to 2 feet. The outward bend is what stops a groundhog that starts digging at the fence line.^{[2][7][1][6][5]}
• Height above ground: Penn State says the fence should stand 3 to 4 feet above the ground.^[1]
• Stopping climbers: Penn State says to bend the top 15 inches outward at a 45-degree angle; Connecticut DEEP suggests a 1-foot extension bent outward at 90 degrees, or a loosely built top that bends outward when the animal climbs. ICWDM calls for a 9- to 12-inch overhang.^[1][5][2]
• Electric wire: Penn State and Montana State place a wire 4 to 5 inches off the ground and 4 to 5 inches outside the fence; Connecticut DEEP gives 4 to 6 inches above ground and/or along the top; ICWDM says a few inches from the top or 4 to 5 inches off the ground. Penn State adds that a single electric wire 4 to 5 inches above the ground has sometimes kept woodchucks out of gardens on its own.^[1][7][5][2]
• Keep weeds and grass cut along an electric wire so they don't short it out.^[1][2]
• Kansas State advises caution with high-voltage electric fencing where children or pets may be present, and ICWDM says to use electric fences only where they are legal.^[6][2]
• Gates: Kansas State says the gate should be sturdy and elevated.^[6]

Live-trapping a groundhog

Connecticut DEEP calls cage trapping the most effective way to deal with a woodchuck causing property damage. Montana State is more guarded, saying it can sometimes work for small-scale problems. Either way, read your state's rules first (next section).^[5][7]

• Trap size: ICWDM and Montana State give 10 by 12 by 32 inches for a single-door trap; Connecticut DEEP gives 32 by 10 by 12 inches single-door or 36 by 10 by 12 inches double-door; Penn State says at least 10 by 10 by 24 inches; Kansas State gives 10 by 10 by 24 up to 12 by 12 by 36 inches. Kansas State prefers metal traps, since woodchucks may chew out of wooden ones.^{[2][7][5][1][6]}
• Placement: at the burrow entrance, on a main travel lane or at the damage, with logs or boards on either side to funnel the animal into the trap. Penn State suggests covering the trap with dark canvas or grass.^[1][2][5][7]
• Bait: apple slices, carrots with tops, cantaloupe or melon, lettuce, cabbage or fresh peas. Replace it daily. ICWDM and Connecticut DEEP say dirt from the burrow mound, spread at the back of the trap, can help; wear gloves and avoid breathing the dust.^[1][2][5][6]
• If it won't go in: where food is plentiful, woodchucks may ignore baited traps. Penn State suggests blocking the door open for several days so the animal gets used to taking the bait, then setting it. A two-door trap set unbaited in the trail, out of sight, is another option.^[1][6][2]
• Check often: Penn State, Kansas State and Montana State say to check traps twice a day, morning and evening. Connecticut DEEP says woodchucks are prone to heat shock, so in summer check several times a day or keep the trap in shade.^[1][6][7][5]
• Close it at night: Connecticut DEEP suggests closing traps at night and resetting them at dawn, which avoids catching skunks and raccoons.^[5]
• Body-gripping and foothold traps kill or hold the animal and can catch pets. ICWDM says not to use them where non-target captures are likely, and Montana State notes that some state or local laws ban body-gripping traps or allow them only in water.^[2][7]

Groundhog laws: check before you trap or move one

Montana State notes a great deal of variation among states in the legal status of woodchucks. These examples show how much the rules differ; your state wildlife agency has the current rules for your area.^[7]

• Pennsylvania: woodchucks are game animals, but protection is lifted when they damage property. Because they are considered a potential rabies vector, the state Game Commission does not allow trapped woodchucks to be moved to other properties; Penn State says to euthanize them humanely or release them elsewhere on the landowner's own property.^[1]
• Connecticut: Connecticut DEEP says to follow state trapping laws, and a trapped woodchuck can be euthanized humanely or released on site after the shed or porch is closed off. It may not be released on state lands, or on private land without the owner's permission. Licensed Nuisance Wildlife Control Operators can be hired for removal and exclusion work.^[5]
• Kansas: the 1992 Kansas State fact sheet says landowners may control woodchucks damaging their property without a license under state law, after reasonable efforts to solve the problem, and that trapped woodchucks could be released at least 10 miles away in suitable habitat. Check whether that still applies before relying on it.^[6]
• Montana State's guidance allows relocation at least 10 miles away only if regulations allow.^[7]
• Shooting is governed by state hunting and firearm-discharge laws, and ICWDM says to do it only where it is safe and legal. Montana State says it seldom gets rid of a whole population.^[5][2][7]

Repellents and scare devices

The sources don't agree on repellents. Montana State says no repellents are effective for woodchucks, and Penn State says none are registered for woodchucks in Pennsylvania. ICWDM says powdered fox urine has shown some effectiveness in reducing crop damage and is EPA-registered for woodchucks. Connecticut DEEP says commercial taste or odor repellents, such as capsaicin or predator urine products, may give some protection to plants and reduce scent-marking on trees, decks and siding.^[7][1][2][5]

ICWDM warns against letting liquid fox urine touch plants, nearby soil or your skin, since it may carry infectious agents.^[2]

• Scarecrows and effigies: Penn State says they give temporary relief and Montana State says a few days. Move them often and keep people active in the area.^[1][7]
• Dogs: ICWDM says territorial dogs may keep woodchucks away, contained by a permanent or invisible fence.^[2]
• Motion-activated sprinklers and noise alarms are sold for gardens and small yards, according to Connecticut DEEP; it does not rate how well they work.^[5]
• Habitat changes: ICWDM does not recommend habitat modification as a woodchuck control.^[2]

Gas cartridges and burrow fumigants

Fumigants put a toxic gas into the burrow, and Penn State notes the gas is toxic to other wildlife too; use them only on burrows woodchucks are actively using. Gas cartridges are General Use Pesticides that burn and release carbon monoxide; aluminum phosphide is a Restricted Use Pesticide that only certified applicators can use. Our pages on each product cover the label rules and steps.^[1][2]

• Gas cartridges: not in burrows under wooden sheds, buildings or near anything that can burn, because of the fire hazard, and ICWDM adds not where people may be exposed to the fumes. That rules them out for most groundhogs under a shed or deck.^[1][2]
• Aluminum phosphide: ICWDM says the tablets can't be used within 100 feet of any occupied or potentially occupied building, human or animal, and that the rules on using it for woodchucks vary among states.^[2]
• Timing: Penn State and ICWDM say gas cartridges work best in spring before the young emerge, which sits uneasily with the timing cautions above. Treated burrows are sometimes reopened by another animal and need retreating.^[1][2]

Rabies, bites and ticks

Healthy woodchucks run from people, but they will defend themselves when cornered and sometimes bluff-charge. ICWDM says pets and children should not approach them.^[4]

Rabies is uncommon in rodents, but most reported rodent cases are woodchucks. CDC researchers counted 368 rabid rodents, rabbits and hares reported from 1985 to 1994, and 317 of them were woodchucks, mostly in the eastern United States where raccoon rabies was spreading. They concluded that contact with rodents rarely calls for rabies shots, but that health authorities should judge each case.^[8]

If a groundhog bites or scratches you, CDC says to wash the wound right away with soap and water for 15 minutes and talk with a healthcare or public health professional about whether you need rabies care.^[9]

ICWDM notes that woodchucks can also carry tularemia and ticks that spread disease; see the groundhog tick profile below.^[4]

Common questions

What is the best way to get rid of a groundhog?

For a garden, a fence at least 3 feet high with the bottom buried and bent outward, plus an electric wire, is the only permanent fix. For a den under a shed or deck, remove the groundhog and then close the openings with galvanized mesh buried 1.5 to 2 feet deep.^[1][6][5]

How deep should a fence go to stop groundhogs?

Sources range from 2 inches with an outward L-shaped skirt (ICWDM) to 12 inches (Penn State), 1 foot (Kansas State) and 1.5 to 2 feet (Connecticut DEEP). Bending the buried part outward matters as much as depth.^[2][1][6][5]

When is the best time to remove a groundhog from under a shed?

After the young are weaned, which is by late June or early July. Connecticut DEEP recommends waiting until adults and young can all be removed, and Kansas State warns against trapping in spring while young are in the den or in autumn just before hibernation.^[1][5][6]

Can I trap a groundhog and release it somewhere else?

Often not. Pennsylvania doesn't allow moving trapped woodchucks to other properties because of rabies concerns, and Connecticut bars release on state land or on private land without permission. Check your state wildlife agency first.^[1][5][7]

Do groundhog repellents work?

Not reliably. Montana State says none are effective; ICWDM says powdered fox urine has shown some effect; Connecticut DEEP says capsaicin or predator urine products may give some protection. Fencing is the dependable option.^[7][2][5]

Do groundhogs carry rabies?

They can, though it is uncommon. Woodchucks made up 317 of 368 rabid rodents, rabbits and hares reported to CDC from 1985 to 1994. Wash any bite or scratch with soap and water for 15 minutes and call a healthcare provider.^[8][9]

Sources

1. Penn State Extension, “Woodchucks (wildlife damage control fact sheet).” extension.psu.edu/woodchucks (accessed 2026-11-10)
2. Internet Center for Wildlife Damage Management, “Woodchuck Damage Prevention and Control Methods.” icwdm.org/species/rodents/woodchucks/woodchuck-damage-prevention-and-control-methods/ (accessed 2026-11-10)
3. Internet Center for Wildlife Damage Management, “Woodchuck Biology.” icwdm.org/species/rodents/woodchucks/woodchuck-biology/ (accessed 2026-11-10)
4. Internet Center for Wildlife Damage Management, “Woodchuck Damage Identification.” icwdm.org/species/rodents/woodchucks/woodchuck-damage-identification/ (accessed 2026-11-10)
5. Connecticut Department of Energy and Environmental Protection, “Woodchuck (fact sheet, rev. 6/22).” portal.ct.gov/deep/wildlife/fact-sheets/woodchuck (accessed 2026-11-10)
6. Kansas State University Agricultural Experiment Station and Cooperative Extension Service, “Woodchucks, Urban Wildlife Damage Control (L-865, 1992).” bookstore.ksre.ksu.edu/download/woodchucks_L865 (accessed 2026-11-10)
7. Montana State University Extension, Animal and Range Sciences, “Non-Chemical Woodchuck Control.” animalrangeextension.montana.edu/wildlife/prevention_and_control/organic-woodchuck-control.html (accessed 2026-11-10)
8. Journal of Wildlife Diseases, via PubMed, “Childs et al. (1997), Surveillance and spatiotemporal associations of rabies in rodents and lagomorphs in the United States, 1985-1994, Journal of Wildlife Diseases 33(1):20-27.” pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/9027687/ (accessed 2026-11-10). Cited from the PubMed abstract.
9. U.S. Centers for Disease Control and Prevention, “Rabies Prevention and Control.” www.cdc.gov/rabies/prevention/index.html (accessed 2026-11-10)